Turn this F*cking Music Off Here! –>

Here at Hairy Bush we not only supply, build and SVA our bikes, we also provide custom wiring solutions to suit each customer.

Steve can wire your custom from scratch or with the help of a ‘module’ based wiring kit. If you catch him in a good mood he might even sort out your bodged or unreliable electrical system.












wireing-150x150




 

Some options include:

  • L.E.D. Loom
  • Remote Control Ignitions
  • L.E.D Idiot Light Conversions
  • L.E.D Indicator Conversions
  • Heat resistant sleeving
  • Polyester abrasion resistant sleeving

  • Through handlebar wiring
  • L.E.D Front Side Lights for S.V.A.
  • Hazard modules for S.V.A.
  • Secondary Immobilization for S.V.A.
  • Electronic Ignition
  • Digital Dashboards
  • In Mirror Speedos and Tachos

Our approach

Its relatively easy to ‘wire’ a bike and get it running, but there is a big difference to creating a show winning wiring solution that will be reliable enough to use on the road.

When you’re building or modifying your ride, keep in the back of your mind the electrics. We are talking Harley here and we are talking VIBRATIONS. Just because they get away with it on a Jap bike doesn’t mean it’s going to work on your hog!

Try not to cut corners on the battery to make extra space either! A reliable bike literally ‘starts’ with a good starter, ignition and charging system. Don’t underestimate the amount of room the electrics and electronics will take up.

In a standard wiring loom the bulk of the connections are made in the Head Lamp but because most builders want to keep a clean look to avoid the bulky wiring around the head stock we try to run cabling away from the head stock and hide the connections under tank or under the seat area. Because of this if you are planning on running wiring through the top tube or seat post you have a whole bunch more cables to run which could impact on the structural rigidity of the frame if you’re cutting holes or slots to run cable through!

We try to make the wiring loom ‘modular’ so that if you want to later remove a component you won’t have to cut the wiring to it but just unplug it from the main loom. This creates a lot of bulk in ‘multi-connector blocks’. Again, think about where you are going to ‘hide’ all of these connections.

We avoid soldering where possible, soldered connections at stress points such as around the head stock will eventually fail. We will however over solder important crimp connections where we want extra security.

Take your time when planning where each component will be placed, consider heat and water ingress. Don’t forget – Coil, Ignition Switch, Rear Brake Switch (mechanical or fluid pressure) oil pressure switch, regulator/rectifier, neutral switch, V.O.E.S., Hazard switch, Speedo/Tacho/Warning Lights.

If you are bringing a bike to us try to have all of the components above mounted as well as the Indicators, Headlamp (including front sidelight for S.V.A and M.O.T.), rear side and brake lights.

It’s all well and good having trick L.E.D lights hidden and mounted with incorrect height and spacing, consider S.V.A and M.O.T and if your bike looks like it’s got no lights it’s a good excuse to get pulled and your insurance company will love you if your lights aren’t legal!